Today was the day I decided to I needed to scratch the rock climbing itch on a beautiful day when I had the day off. The sun was poking through the clouds every now and again, and there was a beautiful warm breeze coming off the lake. This could only mean one thing of course. With the barometer dropping, it was almost a guarantee that we would be getting rain before noon. Sure enough, around 11 o’clock, the rain started coming down, first a bit at a time, then a bit more at a time.
Before I was forced to run for cover, I was inclined to do a little exploring around Kingston Mills. I’ve been down to the Mills time and time again, but I’ve often thought about what else could be hiding back there. Being without a climbing partner, I was also given two options of how my morning was going to shape up, either free soloing, or bouldering. Since I am no Alex Honnold, I opted for the later.
I have gone rock climbing at Kingston Mills a number of times, and while the typical spots have been a great experience thus far, I’ve often wondered if there as more to our local crag. Hence this latest excursion.
This image is one of the pieces of rock that I found on my little walk about. I didn’t jump onto it, but it definitely seems like it has potential, after a little bit of cleaning. There were a couple of others that seemed like they could be developed into reasonable climbs. Some seemed to be good boulders, and others could be low top ropes, though it seems a little redundant when they would be just as good as high balls.
I was particularly intrigued by this rock. When you follow the trail along the river, make sure that you hug close to the shore. You will walk through a tight set of trees, and then come out to another cliff line. Walk down the line of cliffs until you get to this feature. The cliff itself is only about 25 feet high, which is comparable to the gorge wall.
First off, I was impressed with how clean it was. The middle section of it was the cleanest section on it, and seemed to have the most potential. There were moss patches on either side of the face, which made for less than ideal routes. The clean part however, followed some really thin moves up to a wicked dynamic throw. I haven’t sequenced the dyno yet, as the setup move was quite we from some seepage. I’m excited to get back to it and keep working it. I will be posting any new boulder routes to the Kingston Mills Topo section.
If you have any boulder problems that you have been working on at Kingston Mills, and would like to let everyone know about, drop a comment in the box below. Cheers for now.