Last week I ran a rock climbing trip for some high school age kids out at Calabogie. While I was there, I took a few pictures of some new routes that have been developed in the past year on the main cliff. I would just like to say that I have not climbed all of these, because many of them are outside my skill level, but they look like excellent routes, so if you are looking for some harder grade climbing, please check these out. The routes are organized from left to right, and basically run from just left of the main overhanging area, to the right side of Vulcan Mind. I have included a few old routes in the topos because they are so close to the new ones, and for reference sake. You can find a more comprehensive list of the routes at Calabogie at thecrag.com.
0. Breakfast Cookie – 5.10d
A sport line with some interesting moves. Took me a few tries to send it because the moves were very different than anything I had done before.
1. Tipytoe – 5.11d
Not really a new route, but close to lots of other fun stuff to climb, so I have included it here.
2. Phasers on Kill – 5.7
3. Homeward Bound – 5.12a
Phasers on Kill has two bolts at the start and then a 5.8+ trad finish. Take some hexes to the top, not great cam placements. I think I saw four bolts on Homeward Bound, but you definitely want to protect the start with some cams, its a bit of a high first bolt. Both of these are on theCrag, but I happen to like Phasers on Kill, and Homeward Bound is still relatively new.
4. Vulcan Mind – 5.10c
5. Lobotomy – 5.12b
6. Vulcan Mind Direct – 5.11b
7. Project – 5.13
Vulcan mind and vulcan mind direct are old school, though vulcan mind direct has only recently been bolted. Lobotomy is the new kid on the block, with some pretty crazy looking side-pulls. Again, I don’t climb 5.12, so this is only my one the ground opinion. The 5.13 project starts the same as Vulcan Mind, but instead of traversing it goes straight up.
Hope you like em.