It has been a long cold winter in the great white north. And of course calling it the great white north is only for folks who don’t live here, because we consider the great white north something else entirely.
Just got back from a road trip with my good friend Joe to Stanton Kentucky. This is the second trip we have done down that way. The weather was consistently just above zero celsius, and the rock is so overhanging so that you can find a lot of climbing that stays dry even in torrential downpour.
Bob Marley Crag is one such crag. With the lowest level of climb being a 5.11a, this is a stiff place to climb. Joe and I were feeling confident in our climbing after the first three days, and I was regularly onsighting 5.11a, so I decided that this would be a good push. My goal had been to get onto a 5.12a, and this was my chance.
There was lots of fun to be had at the crag. We jumped onto a 5.11a called Toker, which was definitely a four star at minimum. Jumping from a large boulder for the start, it was a great photo opportunity.
The rest of the climb was easy cruising to the top, with some harder, stretchy moves for clipping the anchors. All in all a great climb.
We proceeded to get onto an 11.d and a 12.a on the massive overhanging portion of the crag. I managed the 11.d in a one hang, and the 12.a on a three hang. Not bad for my first 5.12a ever. Looks like a good start to the climbing season.